The circuit was still pretty huge and ran on a standard Arduino Uno, a bread board and far too many long wires. It’s really nice to spread light in general and I used it for many of my LED projects already.Īnd this was actually the first light test! Way too flashy but still cool. I sadly have no idea how this stuff is called, but I hope this picture helps you to find it out. To get rid of the light dots of my LEDs I put a couple of layers of packing material over them. The blue thing you see is actually a LiPo battery which was supposed to be the power source of the whole circuit. Well, and this was actually the core: I attached around 1 m of LED strip on both sides to a piece of lightweight balsa wood which fit perfectly into the hollow axe. Since the axe had to be hollow and translucent, this was the best solution I found for that job. The result was again very fragile and I had to be very careful when holding it in my hands. Now it was time to build the rest of Shadowmourne. While the blade was pretty easy to set together however, the head of the axe cost me quite some time. The result of this really simple work looked pretty nice already!ītw: If you also want to add some lights in your projects, check out my LED book for some helpful tutorials! Then I wrapped over half a meter of LED strip in packing material and just hot glued it on the back of the blade.

Since I don’t own a pressure chamber the resin cured out with countless tiny air bubbles in it, but I guess this look fits pretty nice for the frosty design of Shadowmourne.Īfterwards I simply glued some paper to the back to spread the upcoming LED light better. The build was super wobbly and sensitive but strong enough to be filled with some Crystal Clear resin from Smooth-On. To glue all parts together, I used simply some translucent tape. So I printed out the model (isolated it from the rest of the axe first in a 3D program) and transferred the pattern to a 2mm thin translucent PVC foil.

I usually prefer to start with the most difficult part of a prop – in this case the front blade, which I wanted to completely illuminate.

To make everything a bit more simple I asked a friend to get rid of the skull on the back and front of the axe. This little tool allows you to edit and lay out a 3D model and print the surfaces out on paper. For the base I exported the original WoW 3D file with the WoW Modelviewer to a program called Pepakura Designer.

Spyro pepakura pattern